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Strawerry plants.


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Author Topic: Strawerry plants.  (Read 775 times)
Shef
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« on: February 03, 2009, 08:47:01 am »

Can anyone explain to me, in VERY simple terms, how to split a strawberry plant. I've never grown strawberries before, but bought a plant for my daughter. It was quite neglected but she got a wee bit of fruit from it. Now it has gone completely crazy and has about a dozen shoots off it. How do I take these off and where/how do I replant them (we are prone to some wicked frosts over winter) without killing them.

I am terribly clueless when it comes to gardening, so any help would be gratefully received
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donquixotenz
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STILL TILTING


« Reply #1 on: February 03, 2009, 10:07:09 am »

best if grown in pots in shady spot and keep well watered..........
if you loop runners, the new shoots, back to the soil they will root and can then be seperated from parent and planted..........
when potting rooted cutting be sureto remove the leaves from the stem that is being placed in the compost.
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Nitpicker1
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« Reply #2 on: February 03, 2009, 05:20:27 pm »

Use the closest plantlet to it's parent on the "runners"  Cut   the rest off and leave the new baby(s) on the parent plant.

Take a look underneath the baby. Note wee white lumps that are gonna be new roots on it's underside. (or they may even be developed enough to be unmistakable.)  If they are only wee nodules, leave it attached to feed off parent till the rootlets are about as long as your little finger, maybe autumn.

When they reach the length of yr little finger you can cut their umbilical runner and plant the baby in a temporary pot with seedling mix.  He should be ready to transplant in the spring.

You can also split the parent plant if it has developed several "hearts".

In late autumn, when you have replanted it's babies, dig mum out carefully and shake or wash  the soil off it's roots. You should then be able to see it's hearts, and the roots attched to each one.

Remove them and their own roots carefully from the tangled root mass. Trim the old damaged leaves off retaining only the newest wee four or five. Plant out as with runner-babies, in temporary pot and seedling mix.

When frosts are due to start cover them with frostcloth or pea straw or oat straw if you can get it.

Why seedling mix for first transplanting?

It has no added nutrients, so the hungry roots spread out in search of food, making good strong roots to get going when they eventually begin new life in whatever richly composted sunny fruiting site you decide on, comes Spring. Tuck pea straw around them to help conserve moisture and keep fruit clear of the soil.

Next season remove the runners as soon as you see them. They stop the plant's fruit production cycle: if well manured, plants should last two or three seasons before wearing out.




 




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Shef
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« Reply #3 on: February 03, 2009, 07:50:17 pm »

Thanks guys. I'll give it a try.

 We have one vege garden started now, with another planned when we both have a day off together, and are able to borrow the tractor.

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« Reply #4 on: February 14, 2009, 09:47:26 am »

Strawberry plants will fruit well for 2, 3 even 4 years in the south but are best treated as annuals in Auckland/northern regions as the second year's fruiting is minimal in the warmer/humid climate.

Strawberries are propergated from runners so if you want new plants let the runners take root. Then you can chop them off the parent and shift them to where you want them.
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Shef
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« Reply #5 on: March 15, 2009, 10:51:35 am »

I am pleased to say that out of our 1 strawberry plant we now have 14  Shocked
Mr S is stoked (he's the one that did all the work)
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Ferney
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« Reply #6 on: March 15, 2009, 10:55:09 pm »

I bought 2 strawberry plants and now have lots.   This has been their 3rd season and the best yet.  Didn't know they wouldn't keep going year after year so will be interesting to see how they do next summer.  I pulled them apart during each winter and replanted all the little pieces with some compost and left them.    They have been under the now finished runner beans and tomatoes.   
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Nitpicker1
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« Reply #7 on: March 17, 2009, 07:29:13 pm »

Quote
Didn't know they wouldn't keep going year after year so will be interesting to see how they do next summer.  I pulled them apart during each winter and replanted all the little pieces with some compost and left them.

interesting to see how they do next summer They will be OK, ferney, since you have effectively replaced the plants by pulling them apart and rerplanting their little pieces.  If you had not done that they would have choked themselves after a few years. Strawberries are clever, with so many ways of reproducing themselves.... seed, runners and splitting the parent.      :yum
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« Reply #8 on: March 17, 2009, 10:08:54 pm »

Mmmm Yummy.  Thats good to know Nitz, thanks.   
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« Reply #9 on: March 28, 2009, 12:26:54 pm »

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Shef
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« Reply #10 on: March 28, 2009, 03:31:08 pm »

 :larf
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Kiwithrottlejockey
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« Reply #11 on: June 29, 2009, 12:54:56 am »


Chilled to perfection

Plant strawberries now

The Marlborough Express | Friday, 26 June 2009

BERRY NICE: Get your strawberry plants in the ground now and you'll be rewarded with a healthy crop when summer comes.

BERRY NICE: Get your strawberry plants in
the ground now and you'll be rewarded with
a healthy crop when summer comes.


Now is the perfect time to plant strawberries if you want ripe, succulent fruit in time for Christmas, according to Rachael Vogan of Garden NZ.

Garden centres are stocked up with healthy new plants ready to be planted.

Strawberries do not require a lot of space to thrive and are the quickest and easiest berry to grow, making them ideal for the new gardener, she says.

Whether they spill out of strawberry towers, tumble from hanging baskets, troughs and containers or share a spot in the flower or vegetable garden, they will reward you with fresh berries for months on end if you treat them well.

Research has shown that strawberry plants that get enough hours in the ground at chilling temperatures well before flowering have increased vigour and produce a higher number of berries over the season.

Rachael's tips for strawberry success include:

Remove the runners in the first season so the plants' energies go into producing fruit rather than foliage. In the second season, the plants can be left to form runners that are removed and replanted for the next season's fruiting.

Plant five strawberry plants for each member of the family, to ensure you have enough berries for all to enjoy all season.

If space is limited, grow them in containers, hanging baskets or towers.

Choose a sunny, well-drained position.

Cultivate the soil to a depth of 30 centimetres and blend in strawberry fertiliser, pelletised pea straw, SaturAid and strawberry mix.

Make mounds for the strawberries to be planted on. Mounding improves drainage and increases the air circulation around plants, preventing the spread of disease, and gives shallow soils more depth.

Black polythene can be used to cover the mounds before planting.

Plant 15cm apart on the top of the mounds.

Add a layer of pea straw to suppress weeds and conserve water as well as keeping the fruit healthy and clean. Add strawberry food every few weeks to ensure stronger, healthier plants.

Cover with netting once berries are formed.


http://www.stuff.co.nz/marlborough-express/lifestyle/home-and-garden/2537955/Chilled-to-perfection
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« Reply #12 on: June 30, 2010, 01:27:39 pm »

I am trying again to grow strawberries in a strawberry pot.


Last year I made the mistake of leaving it on the deck. Between having problems getting water down to the bottom plants dispite the newspaper tube, snacking rabbits, and the birds I got one berry - it was sour. Possible due to lack of sun.

This year I have put a 'watering column" that reaches 2 thirds of the way down the pot made for a piece of agracultural drain pipe (the black ribbed stuff with holes) with a small plant pot on the bottom. I also put a stake ready to put another old pot on the top to hold up the bird netting.

I have put the whole thing down by the vege patch.

Here is hoping for some strawberries this year.
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